We say goodbye to our friend in Hasparren (E) and head toward the coast of Spain via the small roads. We get a sunny morning and enjoy the coastal views.
We stop in a small village called Aulesti (F) up in the hills in the Spanish Pays Basque area. Not surprising we are the only ones staying in the small hotel called Ubilla, Aterpetxeaxea. Its patronised by locals and by evening, we are the only ones left to stay the night. Well it is mid October after all, and we are in the mountains in the middle of nowhere…. so we are kept company by our friendly dalmatian-looking pony.
The next day we carry on to one of our favorite places, Llanes (G). We fell in love with this little town three years ago, and this stop just reinforces why we love it so much. Flanked by the majestic Picos de Europa mountain range and facing the sea, Llanes has one of the most dramatic settings in Spain and it has an interesting past.
Llanes became a prominent town under King Alfonso IX of Leon in the 13th century and there are still remnants of the medieval wall that surrounded the town, and a wonderful medieval tower, in addition to the beautiful Basilica of Santa Maria.
But it is the palaces built by Indianos people that distinguish this lovely town. The Indianos were emigrants who traveled to Cuba and Mexico in the 1800’s and early 1900’s and brought back vast fortunes made in tobacco, textiles and banking, building wonderful colonial mansions which now characterize this region. An example of one of these mansions is the Palacio de Paturro located as you leave Llanes and is a great example of Indiano architecture. The building itself, which was converted for use as a hospital during the Spanish Civil War, was completed in 1899.
Llanes and Mexico are still very much linked and in summer the town swells with visiting Mexicans descended from these Llaniscos, many of which still have family houses in the area.
We head towards the fishing port and admire the work of art Los Cabos de la Memoria created by Spanish painter and sculptor Agustin Ibarrola who painted the colored cubes on the blocks of cement which make up the breakwater.
We carry on down the coast heading for the popular seaside towns of Muxia and Finistère (H) both found on the stormy Costa da Morta, or Coast of Death on the northwest coast of Spain. Both are popular end points on the Camino walking route.
We visit Muxia first, finding our way to the coastal point and the obelisk shaped monument called A Ferida (the woundè), built as a tribute to all the volunteers who worked tirelessly during one of the worst oil spill disasters in history. In November 2002, the Prestige tanker spilled 70,000 gallons of oil into the Atlantic Ocean causing an environmental and commercial disaster of epic proportions. Also found next to the sculpture is the Virxe da Barca sanctuary. The sanctuary was originally a pre-Christian Celtic shrine and sacred spot. This part of Spain was resistant to conversion to Christianity, and was only converted in the 12th century. The Christians built a hermitage on this location at first, and later the present church in the 17th century. Its location is amazing, looking out to sea at one of the western most points in Europe.
Our stop for the night is in Finisterre – the Romans gave this town the name of ‘Finis Terrae’, meaning Land’s End or The End of the World, as they believed this point to be the most Western corner of their vast Empire. Just to make it more confusing, its been called Finisterre, Finistère, Finisterra, or Fisterra depending on whether you are using its Spanish or Galician name.
We are lucky enough to find a hotel up on the hill with a room with a balcony so we visit the town and then later that evening, enjoy the views and sunset.
We retrace our steps, and cannot but stay in our favorite spot for one final night – Vila Praia de Ancora we enjoy a beer and Sinclair has to try the famous franceshina, vegetarian style.
So, we have a few more days before we fly home and have one more stop before reaching Lisbon. So onto Coimbra!
Loving all the history and photos you guys!
Travel safely back home soon!
Thanks coz! We will enjoy our last few days as heading home very soon. Hope you and family are all well xx
Amazing looking place.
You two need to write a book.Inspire your peers and the younger generation.