We leave Coimbra (I) for Lisbon (J), our final stop before flying home later in the week. As usual we take the smaller roads so we can enjoy more of the countryside and smaller towns. We arrive a few hours later at Lisbon airport to drop off the rental car and then its an easy trip on the subway to our AirBnB accommodation in the Barrio Alta part of town.
Just a note about the raven which is our feature photo. The raven is known as a symbol of Lisbon and features on its coat of arms. According to legend, in 304 A.D, Vincent of Saragossa was martyred after refusing to renounce his faith. After St. Vincent was martyred, ravens protected his body from being devoured by wild animals, until his followers could recover the body. A shrine was erected over his grave, which continued to be guarded by flocks of ravens.
We are excited to be back in Lisbon however we quickly realise that things are quite different this time. A more subdued atmosphere permeates the city, its much quieter, less busy than when we visited in 2017. Of course, this comes as no surprise given that its now late autumn combined with the impact of Covid which has dramatically reduced tourist numbers.
By the time we arrive at our accommodation and settle in, its getting dark and we decide to eat out at a local Cabo Verde restaurant just down the road from where we are staying. Our meal is a fish Catchupa, a meal of beans, vegetables and fish stew, a mix of Creole, Portuguese and African influences.
The history between Cabo Verde (Cape Verde) and Portugal dates back to the 1400s when Portuguese sailors exploring down the western coast of Africa reached the offshore islands of Cape Verde which at that time was uninhabited. The Portuguese brought West African slaves to the islands to labour on plantations and the small Portuguese population intermingled with the slaves to produce the distinctive majority culture of the Cape Verdean people known as Crioulo (Creole). Eventually Cabo Verde gained independance of Portugal in 1974 and both due to the inhospitable climate in Cabo Verde and proximity to Portugal, there are a lot of immigrants living in and around Lisbon.
Lisbon remains for us a definite ´must’ see city. It’s the second oldest capital of Europe and was once thought of as the most remote outpost of the known world. In 1755, the city was destroyed by one of the deadliest earthquakes in history and within a week after the earthquake over 90% of the buildings in Lisbon had either collapsed, been flooded by the tsunami or burnt by fires. The city was completely rebuilt and to this day, downtown Lisbon still has some of the worlds first earthquake proof buildings.
During the evolution of Lisbon more has been written about the statue of King Jose I found in the main city square Praça do Comércio. It is symbolic on many fronts; firstly contrary to the norm of major works being designed by Italian and French sculptors, this one was designed and crafted by Portuguese artists. Additionally, where the statue faced caused much controversy. Should the King face the sea or inland toward his people. Then there was the question of which way the horses backside should face…..😳
Lisbon retains one foot firmly in the early 1900s. Its hills and cobbled alleys are still served by ancient trams and funiculars that rattle along streets where old-fashioned shops and cafés reign and although Lisbon is easy to get around, you definitely need some good walking shoes as the city of Seven Hills is called this, for good reason.
Down on the waterfront, Cais do Sodré is a colourful area where waterfront warehouses have been converted into bars and restaurants and is also home to the Mercado da Ribeira, Lisbon’s main fruit, fish and vegetable market and food hall. Normally a bustling place, these days its quiet with many stalls closed.
High above, the Miradouro Das Portas do Sol has spectacular views across the rooftops of houses in the Alfama district and the river.
Of course, one would be remiss not to include a pastry stop. Our final Pasteis de Nata… we are going to miss them! ( and all the other gorgeous pastries!!)
Next, wrapping up with our journey home!