It’s been a while since our last blog and although we’ve now left Europe, I wanted to finish up with our walk down the Portuguese coast and share our last weeks in Portugal and France.
You can see from the map above the Camino route we took starting in Irun Spain (A) travelling along the coast to Santillana Del Mar (C). With the influx of Spanish tourists hitting the coast we were struggling to find accommodation so we dropped down to Fromista (D) on the French Camino and continued along this Camino route until Santiago de Compostela (F). We then decided to walk down the Portuguese coast following backwards the Espirituel Camino (G) and then the Portuguese Coastal Camino, finishing up in Porto (H). All in all we covered roughly 900 kms… stayed in over 50 albergues/hostals… lost 10kg between us…found mental and physical strength and fitness, and gained friendships that will last a lifetime.
After the short boat trip from A Guarda in Spain across to Caminha in Portugal, we continue walking down the coast, stopping at a couple of our favorite places, we then jump on the train to Porto in time to meet up with our Mercy Ship friends Dani, Miriam and Jane with whom we spend the next week discovering (or re-discovering… ) Porto and its surroundings.
As Portugal’s second largest city, Porto is a wonderful place full of character and charm. It’s very walkable and it’s easy to wile away the hours discovering beautiful historic buildings, having a bite to eat along the Douro river, or sampling some of the local delicacies.
Of course, we have to try out all the Portuguese delicacies while in Portugal.
So we start with Port wine. Just as “Champagne” technically refers to wines from a specific region of France, so does “Port” wine which only comes from the Douro region of Portugal. It is the third oldest protected wine region in the world after Chianti (Italy) and Tokaj (Hungary).
The Franceshina is another delicacy of Porto. It’s a type of sandwich made with thick slices of white loaf bread, Portuguese ham, sausage, cheese and steak, all topped off with a fried egg. Oh boy, you can’t just eat it, you have to mountaineer it 🤣.
Pastel de nata, a delicious creamy custard tart, was invented in the 18th century by Portuguese monks. At the time, it was common practice to use egg whites to starch nuns’ habits — which, naturally, left the monks with a ton of leftover yolks. So they came up with the now renown recipe for the delights found on most Portuguese street corners.
One of my particular favorites is Polvo Lagareiro, octopus prepared either boiled, lightly braised, and then grilled. Oh yum 😋.
Last but not least is a tasting of codfish paired with a glass of port. Codfish cake is an icon of Portuguese cuisine · Known as a “pastel” in the south and a “bolinho” in the north.
One of the best representations of Porto’s history are the beautiful azulejo tiles we see all over the city. Azulejo comes from Arabic meaning ‘the polished stone’. Porto is famous for its beautiful azulejo tiles found throughout the city.
Igreja do Carmo is not only one of the best places to see azulejo tiles in Porto, but it’s also one of the most beautiful churches in Porto.
This 18th century baroque church had its tiles installed in 1910.
At Sao Bento train station, you’ll see the extraordinary hall covered in 20,000 azulejo tiles in Porto, courtesy of Jorge Colaço. Colaço’s work, which covers an area of 551 m2, is truly one of a kind. The tiles tell a story as if we’re being transported through time.
Capela das Almas is a chapel located in one of the most important commercial streets in Porto. It also sits next to Bolhão subway station which was designed by the famous Porto architect Souto de Moura.
We leave Porto and head back up the coast and base ourselves at Praia de Ancora, one of our favorite spots along the northern coast of Portugal. We are excited to share this part of the coast that we’ve fallen in love with with our Mercy Ship friends.
We spend a day wandering through the historic town of Viana de Castelo taking in the sights. Overlooking us from the mount of Santa Luzia is the beautiful gothic church of Santa Luzia, and although the church suggests a longer history in actual fact it is less than 80 years old having been commissioned in 1904 and only completed in 1943. For the brave hearted… or when the furnicular is not operating like it was when we visited, you can walk up the 666 steps to the church and magnificent views of the old town, the Atlantic, the River Limia and pine-topped hills in all directions.
Praca de Republica is the historic square in the centre of the old town and has the old city hall built and a Renaissance fountain built in granite in the 16th century.
A wander down Rue Grande to admire the pretty hanging umbrellas.
At Praia de Ancora, a well known surfing destination, we spend a few days just chilling. We stay right in town overlooking the ocean so its only a hop, skip and jump to restaurants and cafes in town. Miriam and I even manage a swim in the ocean.
We take a day to walk up to Caminha, another small town about 8km from Praia de Ancora. As its part of the coastal Portuguese Camino walk, it gives everyone a taste of walking the Camino.
After a great week together, we say goodbye to our Mercy Ship friends and its ‘until we meet again’…such is life on Mercy Ships.
We head back to our favorite Basque town, Hasparren (the little house icon on the map) where we stay our final week in Europe with our friend Francoise. She has really been a wonderful host and we have been thoroughly spoilt during our time with her. It’s hard to say goodbye – so Au Revoir mon amie et Merci!!
Our next stop – Toronto, Canada.
Greetings from Seattle! LOVE all the pictures of your travels. TORONTO..?? Just a hop skip and a jump away from the PNW. Planning on coming west?
Keep me informed. 206-396-6103. There is a position open for a fitter and I’m thinking of going back to cause more trouble. Would hate to be away if you come through. I’ve got special accomadations for you, very cheap. Remember…your money is no good here in Seattle.
All the best.
Steve
Wow you really walked that trail. I feel like it needs to go on our bucket list. Love the snaps of Porto. Great memories of our trip. I guess you are in Canada now. Looking forward to that blog. Safe travels & hope to see you soon.😘