I think I mentioned the challenges we were having finding accommodation. It had gotten worse as we progressed along the northern coast. The pilgrim only albergues would fill up quickly and for the rest of the accomodation we are competing with every Spanish tourist who heads to the coast to escape the heat.
So ..we took the train from D to E on the map above so we have now officially joined the Camino Frances. Although known as the busiest Camino, it also has the most facilities and services so we are hoping that we can continue our walk without stressing about where we will end up sleeping every night.
We are now in the largest region of Spain called Castilla y Leon and they don’t call this area the ‘cereal plains’ for nothing. We are in the Meseta, the high plateau that includes a large part of Northern Spain. We are at 800+ metres above sea level and most of the land is farmed so you see vast wheat fields, sunflower and rapeseed crops that stretch to the horizon.
Our walk takes us through the town of Villalcazar de Sirgo where we stumble across an amazing church, Santa Maria la Bianca. It was one of the most historic religious centres along the Camino route and is said to have been one of the churches gifted to the Knights Templar as thanks for their role in protecting Spain in various battles.
We also sit down with the mayor of the town, who back in the 80s was hugely influencial in resurrecting the Camino pilgrimage route.
It has been a big change from the Camino Norte; the scenery is very different, but quite monotonous in this area of Spain but we enjoy stopping in the smaller villages. We are also relieved to know that we don’t have to fight for a bed at the end of a days walking in the searing heat.
Our walk continues through towns with names like Cadzadilla de la Queza, Carrion de Los Condes, El Burgo Ranero…just to name a few. They all have something to offer a weary pilgrim and most wouldn’t have survived had it not been for the revival of the Camino Way.
It’s another stinking hot day when we reach the mid way point on the Camino Frances, just before we arrive at our next stop Sahagun. We get another couple to take our photo between the monuments that symbolise the midpoint.
We stop at Bercianos del Real Camino for a bite to eat. The Albergue looks like a nice place to stop, and we carry into El Burgo Ranero, our stop for the night.
Our night stop is in the small town of El Burgo Ranero. We stay in a basic pilgrims only albergue. The house we stay in is built is the typical old style mudbrick, bricks made of clay and straw ( of which there is a lot of here).
Our bunk bed is in a room with 4 others so 8 can sleep in each room. The albergue has 30 beds, a bathroom with showers and toilets and a small kitchen and sitting area.
Our last stop this week is in Leon, a main pilgrimage stop on the Camino. Dating from the 1rst century, it is one of the most historic cities of Spain.
We spend an extra day here visiting the main sights. At every turn, there is another amazing building, church or monument to admire.
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So, we move into week 4, and look forward to a change of scenery in the next few days.
Inspirational again, lookS like you are doing the hard yards in places must be nice to get there though.