We’ve decided to give the ‘outback’ a rest and head toward the ocean, so we continue south to explore the Yorke Peninsula. It’s a little peninsula found west of Adelaide, apparently a favorite with Adelaideans for weekend and holiday retreats. But having spent the last 7 days here, we figure it certainly deserves more than a weekend.
After Woomera, we stop at the coastal towns of Port Augusta, Port Germein, Port Pirie and Port Broughton – all very picturesque. Yorke Peninsula is a major producer of grain so these towns were at one time vital to the shipping of grain overseas however once roads in the region improved, and freight-handling techniques changed from bags to bulk, this became obsolete.
Port Pirie is still the second busiest port in South Australia with its lead smelter dominating the skyline, and Port Broughton, once an important wheat port now relies on tourism and Port Germein used to have the longest jetty in Australia at 1680m.
Interestingly Sinclair’s dad Seoras, in the early days sailed to the ports in the Spencer Gulf (Port Augusta, Port Pirie etc), picking up cargo, logs, gypsum and taking it to New Zealand.
The Yorke Peninsula is also known as the Copper Coast in recognition of the regions copper mining history. The first copper was discovered in the towns of Wallaroo and Moonta. Back in the mid 1800’s, Cornish and Welsh miners made this area their home making the area known as ‘little Cornwall’. Moonta Mines started operating in 1861 and went on to produce upwards of 20,000 tons of ore, 20% of which was copper. Many of Moonta Mines structures still exist and we take a walk through the area and discover the size and scale of the operation.
Its said that copper was discovered in 1861 by a shepherd named Patrick Ryan. He discovered traces of copper in earth burrowed out of a wombat hole and the rest is history. Hence why a pair of wombat statues have been erected to highlight the role they played in the discovery of copper in the area.
We stay at some prime bush campsites run by Yorke Peninsula Council; we enjoy the seclusion and seafront views.
We bush camp along the west coast, staying at Tickera Bay, Minlacowie, Len Barker Reserve and Swincer Rocks. All great spots, mostly right on the waterfront. Varying degrees of wind and flies but great sunsets and again, pretty much on our own.
Our next visit is to Dhilba Guuranda-Innes National Park, a spectacular park found right on the ‘toe’ of the peninsula. Its rugged scenery and sweeping views are beautiful. The Stenhouse bay lookout walk is only an hour but well worth it for the views. We carry on to admire Cape Spencer and the lookout and continue onto West Cape and the beautiful Pondalowie Bay. On our way back out of the park we stop at Ethel beach, site of the ruins of the 1904 shipwreck; Chinaman’s Hat island and the Inneston historic walk which showcases the gypsum mining era with some of the ruins left by Scottish miners in the early 1900s.
After we leave the National Park, we bush camp 2 more nights on the east coast of the Peninsula and follow the art trail that features silo and water tower murals. We stop at Ardrossan on the east coast for a coffee and admire the ‘painted’ ocean and also discover, just out of Yorketown, a ‘pink’ salt lake during our travels.
A bonus stop was to Mundoora where we caught up with fellow GX’ers Craig, Jenny and Kozi Shoobert. It was a ‘short but sweet’ time. Safe travels guys!
So the Flinders Ranges is our next destination before we start our journey back toward Brisbane. Stay tuned!